It is difficult to believe two weeks has passed since I left the states and landed in Vietnam. I’ve been on the go quite a bit and learning so much about life here and myself. Within a few days time, I went from questioning my choice of starting this journey in the chaos of Saigon, to being charmed by it and so sad to leave. This city has given me so much confidence, not only to tackle the rest of Vietnam, but the rest of my 7 month solo journey. Here are a few anecdotes from my first few days in Ho Chi Minh City.
#1) Walking with Cautious Confidence
On my first day exploring Ho Chi Minh City, I had 3 goals 1) to find an ATM for much needed currency, 2) to successfully navigate myself to the nearby Botanical Gardens about a half mile from my Airbnb (perhaps more more importantly being able to find my way back), and 3) getting some food in my VERY empty belly as I hadn’t had a meal since the airplane which at this point was over 24 hours prior. As I walked, I soaked in all the sites, smells and noises that surrounded me—talk about sensory overload in the best way possible. After initially taking a wrong turn, I reoriented myself and after a relatively short walk I spotted an ATM next to the Botanical Garden. There was a problem however, they were on the opposite side of a VERY busy street. I know what you’re thinking, big deal Anna, quit being a baby. Just find a crosswalk and cross the street. Easier said than done my friends. Crosswalks in Ho Chi Minh City don’t mean what they mean in the States. Motorbikes are king here and it is up to you to watch out for them, even in the crosswalks they do not come to a complete stop for you. The never ceasing motorbike traffic made the prospect of crossing the street terrifying to say the least. I reasoned to myself there must be another place to cross, but after I observed the locals, I realized there was not and crossing the street in this chaos was the reality. I noticed an elderly Vietnamese woman preparing to walk her bike across the street and aligned myself behind her which created the perfect shield (I must admit, I still feel slightly guilty for using an elderly woman in this way). Motorbikes did not stop for us as we moved our way through the crosswalk, but slowed and adjusted around us as we took each cautious, but confident step at a time, inching our way forward until we had successfully reached our destination.
That first street crossing was an adrenaline rush to say the least and I felt a surge of triumph. Crossing the street while dodging motorbikes is a way of life here and I had just successfully done it, albeit with a bit of help. As you might imagine, it is frightening to take that first step into the street as oncoming motorized vehicles zoom quickly at you, but the reality is these motorists do not wish to harm themselves or you and are incredibly adept drivers who nimbly adjust to what’s in front of them. It is really quite incredible to observe. Heck, even the canines casually walk the streets with confidence and the traffic adjusts accordingly around them, so I certainly can manage it too (yes, I realize I’ve compared myself with dogs). I began to tackle subsequent street crossings with the cautious confidence of someone who knows what she’s doing and the traffic slowed and adjusted to my stride just as it did for the locals. Reflecting over this, I know there are so many times in my life I’ve let fear prevent me from taking that first scary step. I am guilty of observing far too long from the safety of the sidewalk instead of pushing myself with cautious confidence to move forward to my desired destination. There have also been times I've avoided taking that scary first step altogether and ultimately took a much more complicated, time consuming route to ultimately get to the same place. Here on the streets of Saigon, as is true in so many other aspects of life, over analysis can create paralysis. I've learned if I want to get to where I want to go, I must be willing to take that first step with cautious confidence, trusting myself and those around me. This was a simple, yet powerful lesson I will continue to ponder and carry with me on this journey and beyond.
#2 – It Tastes Like Victory, Pho Real
My first couple of day I was intimidated to order food having not yet mastered the currency, having little idea of what I would be ordering and no idea how to communicate if questions were asked. Out of sheer necessity and desperation my first meal in Vietnam was at the Botanical Gardens. I approached the open-air cafeteria like counter and pointed to what looked like a harmless and soggy stir-fry veggie dish. Questions were asked in Vietnamese to which I had no idea how to respond, but I gathered she was communicating that the veggies were a side dish that came with a main entree. I pointed to what looked like a relatively harmless piece of fried something that didn't have a face and hoped for the best. Not being a seafood fan, I was relieved when I bit into the mystery food to discover it was chicken-or at least that's what I'm telling myself it was. The food was nothing to write home about (imagine the quality of food you get at an amusement park and you know what I mean), but it sufficed and filled me up for the day until I could work up the courage to attempt ordering another meal.
The next morning from the balcony of my Airbnb, I creepily stalked the interactions of the Pho Lady who every morning set up her cart, metal table and stools in the street just below my room, the delicious smells wafting in through my open window. She received a steady stream of local customers and I observed from the safety of my room how they just sat down at any available seat and a bowl of steaming hot pho magically arrived in front of them. Not knowing how much this would cost, I grabbed a variety of Vietnamese Dong and worked up the courage to take my seat among the locals. And just like magic a piping hot bowl of pho appeared in front of me as well. That is the best bowl of pho I have ever eaten, not only because the ingredients were fresh and the flavors truly incredible, but because it tasted like victory. I once again took my cues from the locals and walked up to the cook after I had finished eating and paid her 30,000 Dong (less than $2.00 US Dollars) and went on my way. I am no longer afraid to seat myself on an empty stool among the locals to get my fill of the amazing dishes this country has to offer.
3) Perseverance for Pants
Those who’ve worked with me know I've had my fair share of embarrassing wardrobe mishaps at rather inopportune moments. Whether it be a hem coming loose or a zipper that has gone off the track, this journey would not be mine if I didn’t have a couple of these moments along the way. After a few days of walking around in the intense heat of Saigon, laundry was needed. I used my Scrubba laundry bag (which worked pretty well) and cleaned a load of undergarments, pants, socks and a couple of shirts. Pleased to have a balcony I could use to dry my garments in the hot sun, I securely hung everything out to dry. I went about my day successfully exploring the city, various memorials and museums. After doing my research on which taxi’s to use to avoid scams, I managed to successfully hail the correct type of taxi back to my Airbnb-another success! I bounced back up the steps with my newfound energy and enthusiasm for this city as I was starting to get the hang of things.
Upon returning to my room, I went out to the balcony only to discover my shirt and a pair of underwear remained, the rest of my laundry had vanished. I frantically peaked over the edge of my balcony and in horror discovered a pair of my freshly laundered underwear resting on the awning of the dwelling next door. The lovely breeze I had enjoyed so much during the day that kept me from melting had wreaked havoc on my laundry. I quickly made my way to the street trying to determine how I could fish my undergarment off. I sheepishly peeked my head inside the building located under the awning and was greeted by a young woman and tried to explain my predicament. I pointed to the awning and then to myself saying mine. She sheepishly smiled and grabbed a mop and fished my underwear off the ledge. I thanked her and proceeded to ask if she had seen a pair of black pants or socks. With the language barrier this attempt was fruitless. I went back to my balcony and scoured rooftops and the streets below for any other articles of clothing to no avail. When you prepare for a 7 month trip with a only a 44 Liter carry on size backpack, each item plays a vital role in your wardrobe. Socks can be replaced easily and cheaply enough, but I had only worn this new pair of not exactly inexpensive, quick dry travel pants once. I was so frustrated with myself for being so reckless with such an instrumental piece of my wardrobe. Determined to find them, I typed into Google Translate that I had lost a pair of black pants off the balcony and went downstairs to show the translated message to the young staff working in the restaurant located on the ground level of my Airbnb. No one had seen them. After I thanked them, I decided to go back and ask the young woman who had helped me with my underwear issue a few moments earlier. I showed her the message and with a big knowing smile and nod of her head she went and pulled my pants, and two missing pairs of socks from her washing machine and handed them to me. I’m not sure why it didn’t click initially that the person who is asking for help fishing her underwear off your awning might also be missing and want the other clothes that magically fell from the sky, but that is neither here nor there. I had persisted in my pursuit of the missing pants and it felt glorious to have them back!
Every day has been an adventure to say the least, thanks for coming along for the ride.
Get Busy Living!
Anna
