A Jewell bistro was named Food Network's most charming small town restaurant in Iowa. Here's why:

Food Network has recognized a Jewell bistro as a local gem.

Juniper & Olive Co., located at 632 Main St., was named “The Most Charming Small-Town Restaurant” in Iowa.

Owner Cyndi Gryte said she is “over the moon" about the write-up.

“Boasting a population of fewer than 1,300, Jewell, Iowa is one small town that’s worth talking about," Food Network writer Ni'Kesia Pannell wrote in her Jan. 31 piece. "One of the main reasons is the gorgeous cafe known as Juniper & Olive."

Gryte opened her bistro in one of Jewell’s original historic buildings in 2021. The town’s first property, "Lot No. 1" dates back to 1881.

The bistro’s bar is the featured photo at the top of the Food Network story, which highlights a small-town restaurant in each state.

“Small yet trendy, the cutesy location is owned by former Broadway singer Cyndi Gryte and offers up flavorful cocktails, unforgettable farm-to-table fare and an Instagram-worthy backdrop that will make your followers green with envy," Pannell continued. "But that’s not all: The space also boasts a gorgeous designer bridal boutique for those looking for an extra special experience.”

From the Big Apple to small-town Iowa

Juniper & Olive offers small plates, paninis and hand-crafted cocktails with a focus on locally sourced foods. Gryte honed her craft, in part, at the famous Coyote Ugly in the Big Apple. But the vibe at Juniper & Olive is vintage, eclectic sophistication in comparison to the rowdy saloon that spurred a movie in 2000.

After years in New York City, the Nevada High and Iowa State University graduate returned to her home state of Iowa to open a place of community and experimentation.

Juniper & Olive’s logo is anchored by a mermaid

Cocktails are one of Gryte’s specialties. Her menu ranges from martinis, bloody marys (she has a secret recipe) and mimosas, bolstered by unique names like "Giggle Water" and "Hooch."

The bistro’s name is a nod to the martini, one of Gryte’s favorite cocktails, while the mermaid logo is a tribute to a group of NYC friends.

“While working and traveling for Coyote Ugly in NYC, I became friends with and created an extraordinary bond with a group of incredible women and we call ourselves and are known as the Mermaids,” she said. ”The theme shows up in the form of a group of friends that call themselves Sirens in my book ‘Heavy on the Vodka and a Little Bit Dirty!’”

Gryte published her novel, Sydney Shag and THE SIRENS: Heavy on the Vodka and a Little Bit Dirty in 2019. The book touches on "big city life" and small-town roots.

Juniper & Olive's name was 'serendipity'

Gryte said the bistro's name, Juniper & Olive Co., came out of a story of serendipity.

The primary ingredient of gin is juniper. The spirit is made by distilling neutral grain alcohol with juniper berries, Gryte noted.

“Add an olive, and you're sipping a martini,” Gryte said. “It's no secret that I love martinis."

The restaurant's name is also a nod to a pair of abandoned dogs the family adopted a few years back.

"After a bit of training, the cuties happily provide emotional support and comfort to my mom. Could you believe that they already had names?" Gryte said. "One happened to be Juniper and the other Olive. They were meant to be with us. Within a month, I started the first sparkling ideas for Juniper & Olive Co.”

Like Gryte herself, her building has had a fabulous past. At various times throughout its history, it's been a bank, a newspaper office, a speakeasy and a ballroom — things that encompass several of her passions, she said.

Gryte writes a cocktail blog titled “Mermaid with a Martini,” which also inspired the bistro's logo and its nod to history.

“(The mermaid's) style evokes the 1920s — not only for my love of over-the-top style and vintage glasses but because the building used to be home to a speakeasy,” Gryte said.

The wall where people would provide the secret password to gain entry into the building's old speakeasy remains, providing an interesting link to the past.

Ronna Faaborg covers business and the arts for the Ames Tribune. Reach her at rfaaborg@gannett.com.