dsmWeekly - April 24, 2024

Chef Sydney Henricks has cooked up a delicious new menu at Ankeny's Trailside Tap. (Photo: Trailside Tap)

FOOD & DINING

New chef blazes a trail at Trailside Tap

By Karla Walsh

In March, chef Mike Holman forged a new path, shifting from uptown Ankeny’s Trailside Tap to downtown Des Moines’ Mulberry Street Tavern. In the process, he left some big shoes to fill. (See our write-up from 2021. Warning: It’ll make you hungry.)

Fortunately, during a recent visit to the Trailside Tap, at 710 S.W. Third St., right next to the High Trestle Trail, I was thrilled to learn the bistro is still in very capable hands. As soon as I asked the bartender who the new executive chef was, a familiar face strolled out from the kitchen: Sydney Henricks, whom I’d met during her time as student at the Iowa Culinary Institute. (She graduated in May 2022.)

Henricks has worked at several establishments around town — Rube’s Steakhouse, Hyperion Field Club, Hotel Fort Des Moines — and said the kitchen has been her sweet spot since 2015. That’s when she officially “fell in love with mastering knife techniques, discovering local produce and connecting with a collage of intensely driven people.”

Speaking of drive, she learned a lot about it from her days as a competitive hockey player from ages 8 to 18 and has transferred those lessons about teamwork to the kitchen. She said she’s both humbled and excited to step into the coach’s role at Trailside Tap, where she and sous chef Alex Vockings took a brief timeout to get their bearings before debuting a dinner menu that is 80% new.

If you’re a fan of the Tap’s cauliflower wings (Korean barbecue and classic Buffalo), don’t worry: They’re not going anywhere. But you’ll want to try the new additions, too, including a hearty smoked pork loin and a s’mores brownie skillet (pictured) that is Henricks’ favorite item on the menu. It was inspired by fond memories of her family’s summer barbecues.

Besides that, “the braised cabbage is an Iowan dad's idea of a ‘vegetable dish,’” Henricks said. “My family’s version consisted mostly of those individually wrapped Kraft American slices, but it was one of my favorites nonetheless.” The new version at the Tap pays homage to that, but with a nod to classic bar flavors — beer cheese and mustard — and fresh local salad of apples and celery.

Henricks said she used to think that her deep roots in Iowa might limit her career. “But the more I began to shape my culinary voice, I realized quite the opposite was true,” she said. “Iowa is known for its agriculture-enriched background. How lucky am I to be surrounded by so many incredible local purveyors? What I want to express with my cooking is simply a road map of where I'm from and flavors from my childhood, blended with technique and growth. I aim to showcase local products in an elevated way.”

For updates about Trailside Tap’s specials and events, follow the team on Instagram @trailside.tap and at facebook.com/trailsidetap. Looking further ahead, the Business Record has reported about the Tap’s plans for a major expansion starting as early as this fall.

Ballet Des Moines company dancer Chiyo Nishida plays Puck in "A Midsummer Night's Dream," April 26-28. (Photo: Jami Milne)

BEST BET

Jump-start summer with a ‘Dream’

This weekend Ballet Des Moines presents "A Midsummer Night’s Dream.” It’s a hilarious twist on the Shakespeare classic, in which mischievous fairies, jesters and a love-inducing flower wreak havoc on everyone’s romantic plans.

The company’s artistic director, Tom Mattingly, has coached dancers from across the metro area through the choreography by Peter Anastos, who is known for his humor-infused style. The score by Felix Mendelssohn sets the perfect tone, including the famous “Wedding March” you may remember from Looney Tunes. Local designer Sarah Dornink created the costumes, with a few on loan from Anastos’ previous home at Ballet Idaho.

Before each performance, local artists from the Side Garage will screenprint merch for sale. You can still get tickets for the shows on Friday, Saturday and Sunday at the beautiful Hoyt Sherman Place. But just remember: “The course of true love never did run smooth.”

The Week Ahead

Joe Satriani & Steve Vai (7 p.m. Thursday): Take note, shred heads: The world-famous electric guitar virtuosos are joining forces for the “Satch-Vai Tour” that visits the Des Moines Civic Center.

Zach Bryan (7 p.m. Thursday and Friday): The Grammy-winning country star’s “Quittin’ Time” tour visits Wells Fargo Arena with the Middle East and Levi Turner. Bryan’s recent hits “Heading South” and “Something in the Orange” have topped charts worldwide.

David Foster and Katharine McPhee (7:30 p.m. Tuesday): The Grammy-winning producer and his singer/actor wife visit Hoyt Sherman Place to perform some of their biggest hits and share anecdotes about their creation. Foster has written and produced Celine Dion’s “The Power of Love,” Josh Groban’s “You Raise Me Up” and Whitney Houston’s “I Have Nothing” from “The Bodyguard."

“MJ” (7:30 p.m. Tuesday through May 4, and 1 and 6:30 p.m. May 5): The Tony-winning musical about Michael Jackson’s 1992 “Dangerous World Tour” has a tour of its own, which includes a weeklong stay at the Des Moines Civic Center. It was written by two-time Pulitzer winner Lynn Nottage (“Ruined,” “Sweat”) and choreographed by Christopher Wheeldon.

The Improvised Shakespeare Co. (7:30 p.m. Tuesday through May 3; 5 and 8 p.m. May 4; and 1 p.m. May 5): With little more than a suggestion from the audience (and years of improv training), the Chicago-based company creates a fresh Shakespearean play every time they hit the stage at the Temple for Performing Arts.

MARK YOUR CALENDAR
dsm events: Connect and learn with other community leaders during two upcoming events. Up first is our annual dsm Inclusion event, Discover Diverse Des Moines: Festival of Festivals on May 23 at the Greater Des Moines Botanical Garden. Learn about a dozen local celebrations of diverse food, culture and music, and meet the leaders who make them happen. Next, we’ll unveil the dsm People issue at a party on June 4 at Broadlawns Medical Center. See who’s who inside the annual issue and network with local leaders we’ve featured in the past. Tickets go on sale April 30.

ARTS & CULTURE
Book of the dead: Local authors Mary Christopher and Mike Rowley unearth stories from the city’s past in their new book “Woodland Cemetery in Des Moines: A History.” And there’s plenty to discover: Just last year the cemetery celebrated its 175th anniversary. The new book shares stories about more than 120 of the cemetery’s occupants — some famous, some long overlooked. A book release party is for 4-6 p.m. Monday at Franklin Library and 4-6 p.m., followed by an authors’ talk at 6:30 p.m. Tuesday at Beaverdale Books.

Abbey Paxton opened Storyhouse Bookpub in 2021. Swing by for Indie Bookstore Day to grab some merch and a new novel. (Photo: Duane Tinkey)

COMMUNITY

Once upon a time on Indie Bookstore Day . . .

This Saturday, April 27, is Independent Bookstore Day, and our local sellers are celebrating accordingly. Eight book stores scattered through Ames, Ankeny, Des Moines and Indianola have teamed up to create a weekend passport challenge for readers and shoppers, with various deals, activities and goodies to mark the day. Collect a passport stamp at all eight locations and be entered into a drawing to win a $100 shopping spree. Here’s what’s in store:

Dog-Eared Books, Ames. Custom stickers, balloons, coloring pages and special T-shirts.

Dungeon’s Gate, Ankeny. Storewide discounts, new merchandise, Magoo’s Pizza Food Truck and trivia.

Raccoon River Press, Ankeny. The online store will host its pop-up shop at Uptown Garage (305 S.W. Walnut St.) featuring books, brews and a drag story time at 1 p.m. Sunday.

Pageturners Bookstore, Indianola. Free “blind date with a book” packages, live music, tote bags and a golden ticket scavenger hunt for free audiobooks.

Reading in Public Bookstore + Cafe, West Des Moines. Tote bags, 50% off clearance items and spring drinks from the cafe.

Storyhouse Bookpub, Des Moines. Ice cream, bingo, tote bags and an outdoor used book sale.

Beaverdale Books, Des Moines. Buy one, get one free discounts on select hardcovers, plus advanced review copy giveaways and refreshments.

The Little Book, Des Moines. Discounts on select young adult novels, tote bags and other merchandise, and coupons for nearby Highland Park businesses.